a week in the kitchen

What do you in eat in an average week? How much of what you eat is shaped by culture? How much is shaped by your access to fresh fruits and vegetables? How would your diet change if you grew your own food?

A week’s groceries in an American household (from Hungry Planet) || photo copyright by Peter Menzel

Award-winning photojournalist Peter Menzel examined what families in 24 countries eat in a week, in his book Hungry Planet: What the World Eats (Material World Books, Ten Speed Press, 2005). The book’s vivid family portraits and intimate interviews won Menzel and his wife and co-author Faith D’Aluisio the James Beard Best Book Award in 2006 for their extraordinary journalistic work.

The photo expose gained recent attention on Time Photos, ABC News, The Guardian, and blogs such as Fstoppers. Why are people drawn to this imagery? Each of Menzel’s photos speaks a thousand words about culture, equality, and health. The economics of industry and trade become paramount. Personal and national wealth are brought into comparative focus.

A week’s groceries in Ecuador (from Hungry Planet) || photo copyright by Peter Menzel

A week’s groceries in Chad (from Hungry Planet) || photo copyright by Peter Menzel

Disparities in a week’s worth of fresh fruits and vegetables from one photo to the next fascinates me. An American family with $342 worth of processed drinks, snacks, and meats is put in plain focus next to an Ecuadorian family’s $32 grain and produce diet. Why are these diets so diametrically opposed? What public health implications are raised?

Since the publication of these photos eight years ago the American diet has freshened for some, but for many it remains dominated by the highly processed products of agribusiness. With obesity and diabetes on the rise and fresh food inaccessible to many, we are beginning to see a resurgence in vegetable gardening. Impoverished areas of Philadelphia and Detroit increasingly look toward gardening as an empowering and practical solution to fresh food access. Public schools, such as those in Cambridge, MA are incorporating gardening into curriculum to reconnect kids with their food. Immigrant families are able to grow their own produce rather than relying on imports.

Access to fresh fruits and vegetables is essential in maintaining a healthy city, regardless of geography. Urban gardening proves fruitful in empowering, educating, and localizing production. When there’s no space on the ground, we must look to the roof for a food solution.

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foodie-ism at its finest

Philadelphians are hot for local food.  This week in particular highlights the extent to which urbanites from the City of Brotherly Love are invested in furthering local food production through action, purchasing power, and dialogue.  I often refrain from writing myself into blog posts, but this activity-filled week happens to be that of my 30th birthday, so please pardon my indulgence as I reveal the top three events of the week in the following urban agricultural categories:

3|  ACTION  

After a season of snow and frigid nights, spring cleanup has begun for growers across the city.  Local DIY excitement mixed with an abundance of vacant lots and a hunger for local food has encouraged a diversity of residents – from laborers to lawyers – to roll up their sleeves and reach into the soil.  Peas will soon creep up the sides of buildings, leading the gaze of many upward to contemplate the prime, underutilized skyline acreage.  The cleanup buzz has overwhelmed me this week, as friends gear up for the season and chat about what vegetables they’ll plant and which would be appropriate for rooftops.

2 |  PURCHASING POWER  

What better way to support local farmers than by indulging in one (or two) of Philadelphia’s premier farm-to-table restaurants?  The city’s strong farm-fresh cuisine culture makes it difficult to choose where to eat on a special occasion, so I chose two of my favorites.  Farmicia, in Philly’s Old City neighborhood, features local, organic ingredients produced with sustainable practices.  Barbuzzo, a hip Mediterranean restaurant in Center City, sources its meets, cheeses and vegetables from local artisanal farmers as well.  Knowing that the positively sumptuous food at these restaurants was produced sustainably satisfies your soul in addition to your stomach.

3 |  DIALOGUE  (two-way tie)

The week kicked off with a thrilling Mark Bittman lecture in North Philadelphia at Congregation Rodeph Shalom.  The synagogue hosted this seasoned New York Times columnist and award winning author, who spoke about “the future of food” with eloquence and humor.  I was delighted to meet Mr. Bittman after the  talk, where he signed my freshly purchased copy of “How to Cook Everything: The Basics.”   Several days later I attended an international conference called “Feeding Cities: Food Security in a Rapidly Urbanizing World,” hosted by the University of Pennsylvania and the Rockefeller Foundation.  The Feeding Cities conference attracted urban agriculturalists and food security experts from around the globe.  The invigorating two-day affair succeeded in spurring conversation between everyone from small-scale growers to Sri Lanka’s Agriculture Minister.

As I enter into my 30s I feel exceedingly lucky to live in a city with such diversified urban agricultural interests.  This is a city where residents are empowered to grow food in sidewalk strips and on roofs.  This is a city with a  burgeoning reputation as a foodie hotspot.  This is a city where civic dialogue attracts global leaders.  Outdoing this inspirational week will be difficult, but I’m up for the challenge.

 

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rooftop seed starting

It’s that time again!  Spring is around the corner and by now your first round of seedlings should be reaching for the sun… or more likely for their artificial light source.  Kick-starting the growing season through indoor seed starting can help ensure that your spring crops are in the ground and ready to roll as soon as the soil warms up.  But up on a windy roof, where can your seedlings find the shelter they need?

SHARE Food Program greenhouse || photo by Lauren Mandel

Skyline greenhouses, high tunnels or hoop houses, and even small sheds can protect your youngins from harsh rooftop winds and temperature fluctuations.  These structures can be designed similarly to those on the ground, with a few extra considerations:

1| Stabilization - The stability of rooftop structures begins with sound anchoring and bracing or cross-bracing.  How will the structure’s footings be secured?  What is the local snow load requirement?  Local building codes may affect the design of your rooftop greenhouse, so before banking on a glass or heated plastic structure, be sure to do your homework.  Consulting a licensed structural engineer may provide answers regarding local building codes, your roof’s load capacity, and methods for preventing structural shaking.

2| Electric hook-up – If a heated or grow light dependant seed starting structure is in the cards, where will the electricity come from?  Does your roof contain an electrical hook-up?  If not, how much will it cost for an electrician to install one?  For the sake of simplicity you may want to consider a passive solar structure, but keep in mind that rooftop temperatures will fluctuate wildly.

SHARE Food Program heirloom tomatoes || photo by Lauren Mandel

3| Water source - Seedlings’ notorious thirst must be satisfied with a water source.  Does your roof contain a point of connection?  If not, you’ll need to speak with a plumber about installing one.  When considering the use of harvested irrigation water, be sure to consult local codes about required filtration systems specific to crop production.

While some rooftop growers choose to start seedlings near their fields, others prefer to reserve valuable rooftop acreage for mature, productive plants.  When considering alternate locations try starting your babes within the building below or at an off-site location.  Go get started!

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agricultural roofs in Gaza

Rooftop agriculture is taking root around the globe.  With its beginnings in 600 B.C.E. Babylon (present day Iraq), rooftop farming has arrived, full circle, back in the Middle East.  According to the online Lebanese newspaper L’Orient-Le Jour, Gazan residents are installing aquaponic gardens on their roofs to meet local food demands.

Rooftop farming in Gaza ||  photo by Mohammad Abed (published in L’Orient-Le Jour)

The February 4th article, written by an Agence France-Presse (AFP) journalist, stated that, “Gaza has 1.7 million people crammed into an area of [139 square miles].”  As one of the most densely populated areas in the politically-unstable region, Gaza’s ability to grow its own food is critical.  The article points out that 35% of Gaza’s arable land, which could be used for farming,  is located in the “buffer zone” barrier, instituted by neighboring Israel in 1994.  Farming within 330 yards of the border can be deadly, so Gazan farmers operate within safer areas whenever possible.  A fact sheet released by the Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations (FAO) notes that the barrier additionally excludes 85% of Gaza’s fishing territories.  Combined, annual losses from restrictions on agricultural and fishing territories exceed US$50 million, according to the fact sheet.

Gaza Strip || image by the UN Office for the Coordination of Humanitarian Affairs

In response to Gaza’s food insecurity- which the FAO has deemed a “humanitarian crisis” – the FAO took interest in teaching Gazans how to efficiently grow their own food at home, in confined spaces.  With funding from the Government of the Kingdom of Belgium, the FAO established an emergency food production support project in 2010.  During the project’s first phase, deputy director Mohammad al-Chatali successfully facilitated the construction of 119 aquaponic gardens on the roofs of female-headed urban households.  Twenty-four additional gardens were installed in community and educational facilities.   In 2011, during phase two of the project, 100 more were constructed, for a total of 243 rooftop aquaponic gardens.

Aquaponic gardening consists of a closed-loop system that combines aquaculture (aquatic animal and plant cultivation) with hydroponics (soil-less plant propagation).  The technique simultaneously produces fish and vegetables, by re-circulating water through the troughs or barrels in which the fish and edible plants live.  In Gaza, tilapia is the fish of choice for these gardens.  Residents grow lettuces, peppers, broccoli, celery and herbs, among other edibles, which are all fertilized by the fish waste in the recirculating water.

One Gazan resident who received a home aquaponic system, Abu Ahmad, feeds his 13 member household with the vegetables and fish produced on his roof, thereby minimizing his need to buy groceries.  With additional rooftop gardens in the pipeline, Gaza is able to feed itself, one bite at a time.

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fancy plants

Designing and building a rooftop farm may come with a hefty price tag.  While many ground-level farms offset costs by expanding acreage, rooftops are limited by the bounds of the building below.  So how do you get the most bang for your buck with a slim budget and limited space?  Some rooftop growers invest in “fancy plants” to attract business.

Uncommon Ground chef Patch Carroll admires his restaurant’s crops ||  photo by Lauren Mandel

Heirloom cultivars - diverse crop varieties that became scarce with the onset of industrial agriculture – are re-emerging and gaining momentum in restaurants, farmer’s markets, and backyard gardens around the country.  Restaurateurs and foodies alike find the unique flavors of heirloom vegetables irresistible, but many of these crops are difficult to grow, or transport without significant bruising.  The solution?  Grow them close to the kitchen!  There, you can keep a close eye on your babies and eliminate their transportation all together.

In north Chicago’s Edgewater neighborhood, the iconic restaurant Uncommon Ground fully embraces the cultivation of “fancy plants” in it’s 0.06 acre rooftop

Organic rooftop mustard greens || photo by Lauren Mandel

farm.  In May I spoke with Dave Snyder, Uncommon Ground’s Rooftop Farm Director from 2008-2012, about his crop selection.  Dave explained that he and the head chef work together to select specialty crops that the restaurant can’t source elsewhere.  During the 2011 season, Dave grew 37 crop varieties on the roof, some of which were more rare than others.  During our interview Dave pined over a rare tomato breed called the Purple Calabash, which he said attracted a lot of attention in the restaurant below.  The cultivar bruises like a peach, and so other restaurants decline to carry the magnificent ingredient.

Uncommon Ground capitalizes upon its ability to grow specialty crops that are relatively unattainable by other storefronts.  Guests with sophisticated pallets and encyclopaedic plant knowledge may know exactly what’s in each bite.  Most guests flock to Uncommon Ground because the food simply tastes too good to be true.

Heirloom tomato at SHARE Food Program || photo by Lauren Mandel

In Vancouver, British Colombia, specialty crops similarly dot the roof of The Fairmont Waterfont hotel.  I spoke with executive chef Dana Hauser in August, who rattled off a laundry list of crops grown on the roof for use in the hotel’s kitchens.  She mentioned several varieties of heirloom tomatoes, six types of basil, and some unexpected rooftop crops like rhubarb, figs, and goosberries.

It’s safe to say that marketing the uniqueness of your rooftop crops is invaluable.  Whether customers come for the superior flavors or for the experience of eating something they can’t get anywhere else, these “fancy plants” create something to brag about.

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TED knows best

From a self-sustaining Lebanese town to Montreal’s urban center, Lufa Farms‘ founder and president Mohamed Hage pushes the limits of rooftop agriculture.  In his 2012 TEDx Talk, Mohamed discusses how rooftop agriculture will change the way we eat.

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the root of it

garden carrots || photo by Lauren Mandel

This year’s Thanksgiving dinner was something to write home about.  A menagerie of vegetable dishes flanked my mother’s heavenly, rosemary-infused turkey: roasted bliss potatoes, braised fennel, sautéed Brussels sprouts, butternut squash soufflé.  But the one side that got me thinking was the roasted rainbow carrots.

I grew these carrots from seed in my backyard garden.  The colorful crop produced tall greens and long, spindly tap roots that plunged into the soil below the raised bed in which the carrots grew.  But what about root crops that don’t have the luxury of growing endlessly downward?  As depth-limited environments with thin soil profiles, rooftop farms and gardens present a unique set of challenges.  Thankfully, we can pluck some useful knowledge from the green roofing world.

For decades, green roof designers have experimented with growing deep-rooted plants – even trees! – on rooftops.  The key is selecting hardy cultivars, providing at least the minimum thickness of soil in which the plants can survive, and ensuring that their nutritional needs are met.  Irrigation is also key in cultivating plants in depth-limited environments.  Proper irrigation techniques often allow deep-rooted plants, like ornamental grasses, to flourish in unusually thin soil profiles.

In the case of rooftop carrots and other root crops, follow these 6 steps:

1| Make sure your roof contains adequate root protection (i.e. a polyethylene or polyvinyl chloride root barrier)

2| Select hardy cultivars that won’t grow excessively deep

3| Blend or purchase well-drained growth media

4| Mound enough media for each crop

5| Pay close attention to each crop’s nutritional needs

6| Provide sufficient drip irrigation

What’s been your experience with root crops?  Have you tried growing them in a container or other depth-limited environment?  We want to hear all about it!

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sunny-side up with a pinch of lead

Hen at Eagle Street Rooftop Farm || photo by Lauren Mandel

On October 8th the New York Times published an article by columnist Julie Scelfo, revealing detectable levels of lead in the eggs of city-raised chickens. The article discussed a recent New York City Health Department study, in which researchers found lead in amounts of 10 to 100 parts per billion in roughly half the eggs tested. The other half of the sample was free of lead, as is typically the case with a grocery-bought dozen. The sample eggs were laid by chickens occupying neighborhood gardens in Brooklyn, Queens, and the Bronx, which presumably browse on ground-level plants and insects. The article ignited conversation about free-range fowl among urban agriculturalists.

Lead consumption is a serious concern, particularly for young eaters, whose small bodies are more sensitive to contaminants. While Scelfo notes that the Food and Drug Administration has not designated acceptable levels of lead contamination in foods, chicken owners and urban farm supporters alike are undeniably nervous about lead consumption at any level.

How do we prevent lead contamination in urban eggs? Bring your feathered friends to the roof. Grazing rooftop chickens will pick through the soil that you provide, rather than the who knows what down below. By bringing in and building your own soil, you have control over what enters their beaks, and your breakfast. What’s more, is that the chickens will pluck pesky pests from the soil, while fertilizing your rooftop crops! It’s a win-win situation.

Notable rooftop farms like Brooklyn Grange and Eagle Street Rooftop Farm boast resident chickens. These lead-free birds help the farmers, while laying healthy eggs in their rooftop coops. As with many ground-level farms, chickens play an important role in agrarian rooftop ecosystems.

I’ll take my eggs with a sprinkle of salt and a side of potatoes; no lead for me please.  

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goat à la roof

While some skyline growers tinker with beets and collard greens, others push the limits of hoofed farm hands.  Rooftop goats are all the rage in Sister Bay, WI, where a small herd has grazed the grassy roof of Al Johnson’s Swedish Restaurant & Butik since 1973.

Installing the Goat Cam || photo by John Nelson

Restaurant founder Al Johnson explained in a 2007 interview that sod roofs are common in Sweden, where he was born, as a means of moderating a building’s indoor temperature.  Johnson decided to install a sod roof atop his Wisconsin restaurant, and rather than mowing, he  introduced a herd of goats to keep the lawn at bay.  As it turns out, the goats draw large crowds to the now iconic restaurant, particularly during the summer months.  In addition to providing utilitarian services like mowing, rooftop goats are fully capable of supplying milk, meat, and even wool.  Their milk can be used for drinking, making dairy products (like cheese and yogurt), and also for crafting soap and other value-added products.  These rooftop ruminates sure do give you a lot of bang for your buck… er, ah, for your billy?  A little goat humor.

Check out Al Johnson’s goats for yourself, through this live feed to the restaurant’s Goat Cam.

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the groundhog done it

It finally happened.  While harvesting cherry tomatoes from my backyard garden earlier this week, a patch of topless broccoli plants caught the corner of my eye.  Slowly turning to assess the damage – brow low, fists clenched – the reality became strikingly clear: my broccoli plants were completely decimated.  Taking a step farther, I noticed that my beet greens were shorn to nibbly stumps as well.

How could this be?!  Who was the culprit?  One more step provided the answer: a groundhog done it.  Marmota monax, little bugger.  With a complete and utter lack of courtesy, this groundhog had made its home directly in the center of my peri-urban vegetable garden.  There was nothing discreet about it.  Main hole, back hole, emergency exit hole, all plain as day.  Apparently in the eyes of a hungry rodent, it’s never too “city” for groundhogs.

After the initial shock and desire for revenge faded, I paused to consider the threat, or lack thereof, of rooftop vermin.  Ground-level farms and gardens are often plagued by groundhogs, rabbits, and other fuzzy creatures looking for an easy meal.  Growers spend time and money on poison, traps, fences, chemical deterrents, guard dogs, and even guns!  But rather than removing the vermin from the garden, what if you were to remove the garden from the vermin?  Rooftops offer a unique setting that is out of reach from groundhogs and rabbits.  The occasional squirrel may wander up a downspout, but this can be easily prevented by installing metal collars at potential access points.  As for mice and rats?  Well, in the green roof industry we only really see these animals when the green roof is at-grade with the surrounding landscape.  Elevate the roof, and 99 times out of 100, you’re safe.

Are your garden pests driving you crazy enough to try rooftop gardening?

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